Boat Transport Preparation
What Boat Transport PREPARATIONS TO LOOK FOR
INSIDE YOUR BOAT
All items in the interior cabin should be carefully inspected to make sure they are battened down securely. All doors/hatches should be well secured and locked. All items on deck should be removed (preferred) or securely lashed down. Normally the driver won’t have a key, so any loose items will cause damage. We recommend you lock the cabin and keep the key. Fuel and water tanks should be run down or drained as much as possible. We have seen instances where full fuel tanks have caused fuel to escape through the tank vent causing fuel to be spilled over the boat. If cold weather is expected the boat should be winterized to prevent damage. All batteries should be disconnected.
OUTSIDE YOUR BOAT
All electronics, anchors, hailers, horns, antennas, propellers, flag masts, outriggers, bimini frames, isinglass, canvas, screens, cushions, lights or any item that extends beyond the stated length, width or height of your vessel should be removed, packed and securely stowed away to prevent damage. The carrier will not be responsible if they are damaged or if they fall off. Drain plugs should be checked and there should not be any water in the bilge while it is being transported. Lastly, the hull should be pressure washed and clean of any aquatic life. By law we are not allowed to transport vessels over the road with any growth attached to the boat.
HATCHES
Hatches should be tightly secured. The latches should also be taped securely to prevent the hatch from coming open while in transit. Be aware a boat rarely sits in the same position on the carrier’s trailer as it does in the water.
WINDOWS & WINDSHIELDS
Cabin windows should be latched and taped from the outside. All isinglass as well as any windshields and/or Plexiglas that protrude over a flying bridge should be removed, packed and should be well secured below.
ZEBRA MUSSELS
All hulls must be clean! Boat transporting overland requires thorough inspect of your boat hull. Check engine intake strainers, and all other through-hull fittings. Check drain scuppers, out-drives and all possible areas of attachment. DOT officers are checking boats for Zebra mussels at weigh stations and boat check stations. If zebra mussels are found, your boat will be quarantined. You will have to arrange for decontamination and it may cause delays that will include additional charges.
COVERS
Boat, cockpit, windshield, hatch, etc., can be damaged, or do considerable damage, whipping or flapping around loose in the wind. All canvas covers must be removed as they will tear or fly off during transport.
SHRINKWRAP
Shrink-wrapping can protect your boat from road tar and dirt however if not done properly it can tear or fly-off during transit or otherwise cause damage as well. Keep in mind that the driver’s view is often obstructed by the boat itself, he can’t always see that the shrink-wrap has torn, nor can the driver hear the shrink-wrap flapping. If you choose to have your boat wrapped for transport we recommend using a qualified contractors or a marina to perform this service and ask that you make certain they are aware that they are wrapping your vessel for overland transport and not just for storage. You should also request that they leave the cleats exposed to ensure there is access to secure the boat to the trailer as well as having them leave an extra roll or two of shrink-wrap tape with the boat. This will be used to seal the holes after strapping the boat to the trailer along with any over the road repairs that may need to be performed during transport . Although we cannot be responsible for damage to your boat caused by shrink-wrap we will stop frequently to check it for damage and if possible perform any necessary repairs. If the shrink-wrap is too badly damaged it will have to be removed before the transport can continue. In any case you will be contacted and given your options before any service is performed that may include additional fees.
WOOD BOATS
ANY BOAT BEING TRANSPORTED, BUT ESPECIALLY WOOD, NEEDS TO BE ABLE TO SUPPORT IT’S OWN WEIGHT. It is highly recommended that wood boats be inspected carefully and thoroughly prior to loading onto the boat transport trailer. This is suggested because there may be inherent structural weaknesses that is not readily visible or detectable. Another option would be a well designed cradle that will spread the weight of the boat over a much wider contact area. If you choose to transport your wooden boat without a cradle we will use extra pads, crossbars and other supports but cannot be held liable for any damage. Wooden boats can also be expected to dry out, a coat of linseed oil will help.
CRADLES/TRAILERS
Cradles or trailers can be shipped with your boat if arrangements are made ahead of time.
DINGHIES
Dinghies cannot be transported on its davits. The dinghy should be arranged to be carried in the belly of the trailer or worst case stored on the deck, securely lashed and padded on your boat. If you are shipping a dinghy on board or if you have had to remove any superstructure, these items should be well padded and secured.
POWER BOAT TRANSPORT preparation ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS
In many cases, due to the shape of the boat and trailer, powerboats over 36′ long will load out significantly lower backwards. Make certain that your windshield is strong enough to withstand the rigors and wind of travel. Confirm the seal is tight and screws holding it in place are not corroded. If there is any doubt, remove it and secure it below deck. We have never had an issue with any boat or windshield due to transporting it backwards.
Any outdrive or outboard motor should be raised and locked. You should always remove the props and safely package and store them in the boat. Props are easily damaged and therefore you do not want them being one of the closest things to the trailer.
SAIL BOAT TRANSPORT preparation ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS
Make certain that all Masts are un-stepped and de-rigged. All cables and spreaders should be padded and bound to the mast. All rigging, winches, wind indicators, and lights should be removed. The strongest side of the mast should be left “clean” to rest on our mast stands. We also have boom stands to carry the boom suspended over the belly of the trailer. Wrapping of the mast is optional, but should be considered to protect from dirt and road grime. Although the mast to stand contact point will be padded you should expect some chafing. If the mast is painted, it is almost impossible to keep the paint from chafing. The carrier will not pay to repaint masts if chafing occurs. We do not recommend the mast be secured to the boat, as there is a space on the trailer for the mast, however it is your option. Should the mast be secured to the boat, we will not be responsible for any resulting damage to the mast or the boat.
Life lines, stanchions, winches, bow and stern pulpits should be removed if they render the boat over height. On center board sailboats, make sure the board is secured and will stay up in transit. Keel sailboats may expect some separation where the keel joins the hull. This is not structural damage, but rather is the paint or filler cracking at the joint. Light built or racing sailboats may expect some hull indentation from the support pads. These indentations generally disappear when the boat is returned to the water.
Rudders, ladders, outboards, and anything else that can turn or flap in the wind, should be removed and/or well secured.
Mast Prep
There are options when it comes to prepping a mast. In any case all sails, spreaders, and if equipped, electronics and furling need to be removed. Preferred method is stripping the mast completely, pad with foam, stretch wrap and tape over in a candy cane pattern with clear packing tape to prevent the stretch wrap from unraveling during transport. If you choose to leave the rigging and/or lines you should pad the mast well, scrap carpet works best but can also use foam, lash the rigging and lines to the mast, stretch wrap and tape in a candy cane pattern. If you have a Furling, you can cut pipe insulation or pool noodles into 2’ lengths spaced out every 4’ or so, attach them to the foil, lash the foil to the mast with the drum just off the base of the mast so it is properly supported then stretch wrap and tape everything together. Whenever possible everything removed should be secured below deck.